Aquaba, Jordan and Magnificent Petra

I wake early in anticipation of the ten hour day, five of which would be spent on board the bus on the way from the port of Aquaba to Petra, one of the new Seven Wonders of the World.  On the veranda I see the twinkling lights of four countries, Israel and Egypt on the port side, Jordan ahead, and Saudi Arabia on the starboard side.  Where else can you do that?

We had considered skipping this excursion because of Bob’s heel spur and now he’s got shingles too.  The ship’s excursion team had warned the general population that this would be a strenuous day.  They were trying to scare off the slow walkers.  We did a little research and learned that donkeys, camels, horses and carriage rides were all available for hire.  TripAdvisor reviews come down on the side of not using these conveyances because the animals are treated poorly and the handlers will try to shake you down with all manner of stories.

Anyway, this is a UNESCO World Heritage site, a Wonder of the World, and a must-see.  We’re off. 

The first part of the ride reminded me of either the surface of the moon or (my Arizona friends will recognize this) the section of Highway 17 that takes you past Bloody Basin Road.  But, in Arizona, the desolation ends and the scenery changes to reveal beautiful vistas.  Here it's endless and monotonous.  Finally, toward the end of the ride, we wind and climb, passing sheep and goat herds.  Approaching Petra we began to descend, down to 2600 elevation.  

It’s still unclear how far Petra dates back to, possibly as early as 9000 BC.  It was established by the Nabataean culture as a trade center between Arabia and the Mediterranean.  The iconic ruins that we’ll see today were probably built between the 1st century BC and the 4^th century AD.  We’ve heard that you need at least three days to fully explore the sprawling site.  We have four hours.   

At the Visitor Center we’re faced with the hawkers that our guide has warned us about.  These are Bedouin tribespeople (men, mostly) that have inhabited this area for centuries.  They’re hawking camel, donkey and carriage rides, Bedouin head scarfs, jewelry and photo ops.

We, and 1,000 of our closest friends, begin descending to the ancient city along a rocky path.  It quickly becomes narrower and narrower with sandstone cliffs rising on both sides.  This narrow gorge was the result of a natural splitting of the rock.  All along the way there is a carved “gutter” that was designed to divert flood waters from the inner city and to route it through tunnels to supply water for the population.  

After about a mile the guide herds us all to the left and leads us step-by-step to the big reveal, The Treasury.  It really is magnificent.  The narrow passageway has opened up into a large gathering place.  The intricate facade of the Treasury is cut into the native rose colored sandstone mountainside. 

After some free time at the Treasury, for shopping and camel rides, we follow the guide further along the vendor lined path to the Theatre, an impressive architectural wonder that accommodates 4,000 spectators.  We’re invited into a Bedouin cave for tea.  It’s conveniently located behind the occupant’s store.  He tells us that his family has lived here for centuries.  He’s very hospitable and not as aggressive as some of the others we’ve encountered along the way.

Free time to continue on or to start the long uphill slog to lunch.  We chose not to climb the hundreds of steps up to the Royal Tombs, instead admiring from below and opting to begin the return trip.  Sadly, we haven’t even covered half of what there is to see, but that’s all we can do in the time allotted. 

Before heading back I bargain for the ubiquitous Jordanian head scarf.  I don’t like the typical red and white checked so have to go deeper into the cave-like shop where a woman and I agree on a price (or so I thought) while she wraps my head.  Turns out that the $10 I had agreed to was really ten dinar.  There was no reneging at that point.

Bob had bought a walking stick on the way in and managed to make the return trip, just barely, without giving in to offers for carriage rides.  TripAdvisor had warned that the drivers will tell you that the ride is included in the price of the ticket.  Then, at the end of the ride, they try to collect anyway.  

DID I MENTION, IT'S BRUTALLY HOT?!

Rewarded by a nice lunch at the top of the hill.  Especially enjoying the naan, hummus, baba ganoush, and tzatziki.

Halfway back to the ship we were surprised by a stop at a shop where, waiting in the parking lot, were Viking crew members dressed in the Jordanian head gear, handing out cold towels and serving tea and dates to the weary travelers.  They had trekked all this stuff from the ship to here.  Such a nice touch.

Back to Aqaba.  Sail away.