February 25, 2018

Komodo Island





Our orientation, before leaving the ship, warns that anyone with an open wound is prohibited from going ashore.  The dragons can smell blood from two miles away and they can move pretty fast when they want to.  The venom can be deadly.

Here's the stats, according to Google:

    • In 2001, a Komodo dragon attacked Phil Bronstein, an investigative journalist and former husband of actress Sharon Stone, in the Los Angeles Zoo.
    • In 2007, a Komodo dragon killed an 8-year-old boy on Komodo Island.
    • In 2008, a group of five scuba divers were stranded on the beach of Rinca island, and were attacked by Komodo dragons. After two days, the divers' ordeal ended when they were picked up by an Indonesian rescue boat.
    • In 2009, Muhamad Anwar, a 31-year-old Komodo Island local, was killed by two dragons after he fell from a tree when he was picking sugar apples.
    • In 2009, Maen, a national park guide stationed on Rinca Island, was ambushed and bitten by a Komodo dragon which had walked into his office and lay under his desk. Despite suffering some injuries, the guide survived.
    • In May 2017, Lon Lee Alle, a 50-year-old Singaporean tourist, was attacked by a Komodo dragon on Komodo Island. The victim survived the attack, but his left leg was severely injured. 
Sharon Stone's "former" husband?  Did that have anything to do with the dragon or was it irreconcilable differences?


Our guide was armed with a forked branch.  Not too reassuring, although his name was Lucky.



We’re separated into groups of 25 and head out on the trail.  Almost immediately there’s a dragon blocking the path.  I think this guy gets an extra wild goat every week to lie here all day at the beginning of the trail.


Bob encourages me to "back up" so he can get a photo of me with the dragons.  I'm reluctant to follow his instructions and become a "former" wife.


 After trekking for a couple of miles, seen one komodo dragon, seen 'em all...

Had to run a gauntlet of souvenir hawkers in order to exit the island and get back on the tender.

Later that night, as we sipped our cocktails and sailed away, the sky was spectacular.









February 24, 2018

Darwin half day

Again we're at a commercial port, a forty minute ride into Darwin.  We're scheduled on a city tour and hope to have time after to walk around on our own.  We've been told not to expect much from the "guides" here.  In Australia the bus drivers have doubled as guides.  This woman was new to Darwin so didn't have much information to share.  She had only been there nine months.  She and her husband travel around, stop and work, and travel around some more.

Driving through the city, Bob liked it a lot.  If not for the heat and the jumping saltwater crocodiles, I would too.  We didn't actually see the crocs, but there were chain link fences and signs guarding all the beaches.
We stopped for an hour at the Museum of the Northern Territory.
There wasn't much Aboriginal art, only this outside installation of car door art.
The gift shop was full of Aboriginal art and Viking passengers trying to use up their Australian dollars.  Too crowded for me.

I spent my time at the Franck Gohier exhibit.  A Darwin resident and pop artist, Franck Gohier has a sense of humor.
 







After a quick ride through the Charles Darwin National Park, where we saw wallabies (too far away to photo,) we were called back to the ship for sail away.

Goodbye, Australia.

Seeyahladah.

February 22, 2018

Sunday on Thursday and reflections at the halfway point

We hit Thursday Island on Sunday, February 18, 2018.  That's day 66.  Another hot and humid day and, in light of the heat, the 40 minute tender ride, and it being a Sunday, we decided to stay on board and skip Thursday.  Also, this is another place where we're warned not to go in the water.  Later we learned that the ride was only 30 minutes, some things were open, and locals were seen wading.

We're already halfway through AND we're only halfway through.  At different times I have different opinions on where to put the emphasis in that sentence.  Some days it seems like the time has flown.  Other days I can't imagine the expanse of time still ahead.  Some days I wish I had taken more advantage of the days behind me and other days I'm anxious to get home and get started on other things, like taxes, the garden, buying a new car, planning summer outings and reuniting with friends.

How did we get here?  What was the decision making process?  We aren't what I would consider avid cruisers.  Our first cruise was a Celebrity Cruise to Bermuda, probably thirty years ago.  Aside from the rough waters along that route in late fall, I think Bermuda is a great destination if you're skeptical about cruising.  From New York, it takes about two days to get to Bermuda and two days to get back.  Once you're there, you're there.  You have ample time to tour the island on your own.  Hop on the public transportation and go all over the island.  Bermuda is a place where both lodging and food are expensive.  Cruising eliminates those costly parts of the vacation.  We've returned to Bermuda two more times.

We've also done a Royal Caribbean cruise from Miami to Key West and then to a handful of Caribbean ports.  This was back when we were still working and before our Arizona winters.  It was relaxing and broke up the long winter.

Our 2003 Alaska cruise was an over-thirty Celebrity cruise paired with a land leg for a total of two weeks in Alaska.  Unless you're willing to do a lot of driving or unless you're willing to do the research to put together multiple ferry trips once you get to Alaska, cruising is the way to go.  I highly recommend it.  I also recommend adding the inland leg.  As long as you're there, do as much as you can.



Our longest sea cruise prior to this one was in 2011, a twenty-one day Holland America cruise to the Panama Canal, which included another handful of Caribbean islands.
I admit, I wanted to go on one of the mega ships.  In 2013 we took our son and his family on Royal Caribbean's Oasis of the Seas in the Caribbean; Curacao, Aruba, and Saint Thomas, I think.  But, it wasn't about the destination.  It was all about the ship.  I've done it once.  I don't need to do it again.

During the summer of 2016 we took Holland America's new ship, the Konigsdam to Norway.  I had wanted to go to Norway.  I thought that Bob should be excited about getting in touch with his Norwegian roots.  I saw that Viking had just started their ocean cruising and that they were sold out for a couple of years in advance, so I opted for Holland America's maiden voyage of the Konigsdam round trip from Amsterdam.  This was lovely, but many of my fond memories are from the extra time we spent in Amsterdam.
Oh, I forgot to mention our Carnival cruise from hell.  Certainly not the Carnival Legend cruise from hell that has just made the news.  Did it make the news there?  A brawl broke out, leaving passengers and staff injured and requiring an unscheduled stop to have the police haul 27 people away.  Another Carnival cruise, the Spirit, a few days later encountered a cyclone and, although nobody was injured, there was damage and it was not a pleasant sail in the Tasman Sea.  Our Carnival adventure was mild by comparison.  It was a Valentine's Day deal, sailing out of San Diego to Western Caribbean ports.  You get what you pay for.
 
Viking River Cruises.  I can't praise them enough.  2011-Amsterdam to Budapest;  2014-France.  River cruising is so much different than ocean cruising.  The ships (maybe at this level, they're still called boats) are between 100 and 175 passengers.  The river and the river cities and towns are the destinations.  The beauty of the scenery as you cruise and the history of the river as a cradle of civilization is the highlight.  And, Viking is masterful at this niche.

My main complaint about cruising in general, and more so of ocean cruising, is that you get very little time to get the flavor of your destinations.  Generally you're only in a port for a day and, unless you hire a private guide, rarely get very far outside of the port city.

What do I like about cruises?  Although I haven't taken a bus tour of any length, I imagine that I, and especially Bob, would be stressed out by the mad schedule, by the early mornings, the packing and unpacking, the inactivity, etc., etc.  Maybe we'll try it some day, but not any time soon.  As for traveling independently, I love the idea of it and wish we did it more, but the research required is daunting.  Also, as I get older, I'm more fearful and less likely to venture out on my own.

Almost two years ago, when I got that email offer from Viking, I had a feeling that it would be snapped up.  If we wanted to go, we'd have to make a quick decision, no waffling.

So, that's how we got here.   1-Our outstanding Viking experiences; 2-no packing and unpacking every other day; 3-no hours of research for every port; 4-no forced schedule; 5-the itinerary including places we want to go and don't want to fly to; 6-minimal chance of digestive issues caused by unfamiliar microbes; 7-comfort

What we're missing.  1-Exploring the interior of countries; 2-discovering local flavors; 3-following our own schedule and the ability to go where we want, when we want; 4-authenic personal contact.

Reflections at the halfway point-
  • As much as I grumble about being herded around, I'm having a good time.
  • I'm happy that we're doing it.
  • The New Zealand preview makes me want to see more.
  • The exotic bits are still ahead of us.
  • We've been lucky to have been on this inaugural world cruise.  We're getting a lot for our money and I don't think this value will be offered again.
  • Viking, being new to these ports and a smaller line, seems to get bumped to commercial ports.  The other larger ships from lines that have been doing these routes for years seem to get the preferred docking in city centers.
  • Coming up in Shanghai is the official christening of the Viking Sun.  There will be a big shindig on shore that we're invited to.
  • Enjoying meeting people from all over, mostly Americans, but some Brits, Australians and other assorted nationalities.
  • Loving not cooking, cleaning, doing laundry, making the bed.
  • I doubt that we'd do something this long again.  Two months would probably be the limit.