A day and a half in Hong Kong

I set my alarm so I can catch sunrise as we pull into Hong Kong.    I was either too late or it’s on the other side of the ship.  Hong Kong doesn’t spend as much on electricity as Shanghai.  The first impression doesn’t compare to the spectacle of Shanghai, but at the end of the day, I’m liking Hong Kong better than Shanghai.

British rule of Hong Kong ended in 1997 and was transferred back to China.  During an interim period of 50 years, Hong Kong is and will be autonomous until 2047 when it comes under Chinese control once more.  When asked, our tour guide replied that she wasn’t going to worry about that because she’d be 92.  It was apparent that she preferred the previous British association.  As a result of British influence, and unlike mainland China, drivers drive on the left.  People are also very polite-no honking.

Another reason to prefer Hong Kong is the terrain.  It’s much more interesting than Shanghai.  The island of Hong Kong and the nearby island of Kowloon, where we’re docked, rise up from the harbor into steep hills.  Because Hong Kong is the fourth most densely populated region in the world, the hills are covered with high rise apartment buildings.  Despite all the concrete, there’s greenery to be found. 

We take the bus from Kowloon Island, under the bay to Hong Kong Island and to the Victoria Peak funicular station.  This is a must-see when in Hong Kong, with crowds of tourist’s cuing up.  We can go to the head of the line. 

I tried to take photos along the way but was mostly unsuccessful. 

At the top, of course, there’s a shopping mall and great views.  We skip the mall and catch the views. 

The bus meets us at the top and we wind our way down the narrow road, barely missing ascending tour buses.  Here we get to see the high rise apartment buildings up close.  These are the pricey ones, according to the guide $20,000 per month US dollars.  This must be where all the hedge fund managers live. 

Next we’re dropped at Stanley Market for, guess what?  Shopping.  This was good shopping, good prices, civilized vendors.  I could have used some more time.  I only had time to buy myself a present, a reversible oriental style jacket.  $26 dollars!  I asked the vendor, “This isn’t silk.  Is it?”  “Yes, silk satin.”  “That’s not real silk.  Is it?”  “Yes, another kind of silk.”

Next we go on a sampan ride around the Aberdeen harbor, on the other side of the island.  The many decorated sampans were piloted mostly by women.  Our pilot carried on a conversation with herself the whole time.  

It was fun weaving in and out amongst what appeared to be houseboats and house-businesses and past a huge floating restaurant.  The front of the restaurant was magnificent, but when we saw the back, we were happy that we’d be returning to the ship for our lunch. 

One more stop, a jewelry maker, a family business, open for private sales only.  Aren’t we lucky?

Back to the ship for lunch.  Regroup.  Catch the free shuttle to the mall!  Haven’t we had enough shopping?

Today we hadn’t scheduled anything.  Since we’re only here until noon, I had left the day open, thinking that we could walk around on our own.  In hindsight, I should have scheduled something for both days.  We’re finding out that, many of the ports we’re at don’t lend themselves to independent wandering. 

In Hong Kong we’re at a fancy new port, but it’s not convenient to the city center.  We have to rely on shuttles or taxis.  Today, in light of a noon departure, we don’t want to risk being left behind, so we stay on board and relax. 

This morning I said a last goodbye to Junar, my barista.  

 Sail Away.

Shanghai LIGHTS

I just went through my pictures in order to winnow them down from 300+ to approximately 225.  I definitely need another go around at it.  The morning skyline with smog.  The night skyline with smog.  The morning skyline with less smog.  The night skyline with less smog.  The night skyline in panorama.  The night skyline in different colors.  It was spectacular.  I couldn’t stop taking pictures.

Google is blocked, so I’m writing this in Word and don’t expect to be able to publish anything until we get away from China.

Our excursion is an overview of Shanghai, but it’s really just a handful of sights that show China in the best light.  First stop is The Shanghai Museum where we have an hour on our own.  That’s not nearly enough.  I start at the top with the porcelain, furniture, and jade.  No time for the lower floors of calligraphy, bronze, and clothing.

Bob finds a bench in the lobby. Bob has been stricken with what he thought was plantar fasciitis.  He went to the ship’s medical department where they x-rayed and determined it’s a bone spur on the bottom of his heel.  They’ve given him some anti-inflammatory and pain meds and have told him to rest.  It doesn’t bode well for the upcoming walking tours. 

After an hour in the museum, which wasn’t nearly enough, we’re herded just outside for some free time in the People’s Park. 

Too much time in the park and not enough in the museum, followed by more free time at the Bund, a colorful walkway along the Huangpu River which is flanked by the upscale shopping district.  The Bund is a favorite backdrop for wedding photos.  There are several booths that advertise their photographic services and I spot a number of couples being coached through their poses.

Tonight is the big event, the naming ceremony and official christening of the Viking Sun.  We all had gotten invitations and most folks said, “Party, of course we want to go to the party.”  The invitation said it was to be held at The Sun Chateau.  I envisioned a huge temporary tent-like airplane hangar size structure that they decided to name The Sun Chateau in honor of the day.  Nope, it’s a permanent structure, a huge event facility that accommodates 800+ for a sit down dinner. 

The Sun Chateau

Alongside the venue was constructed a stage, a lounge area and viewing stands.  After the event and for one more day, they were still dissembling it all when we sailed away.

The event wasn’t all that we had anticipated.  The food was just okay.  The buffet stations were backed up.  The viewing screens in the dining room weren’t placed conveniently.  The translator spoke at the same time as the speaker, so neither one could be understood…and so on.  I hope the Chinese financiers had a grand time. 

Godmother and Captain Knutsen's wife

Christened with aquavit

We all returned to the ship and continue the party there until we remembered that the next day would be a long one, on the full day excursion to The Venice of China. 

Leaving Shanghai, I never really could tell when I had left Shanghai.  Amazingly, the high rise apartment complexes never diminished in the 60 miles we traveled to Suzhou.  I couldn’t tell where Shanghai ended and Suzhou began, and if there were any cities in between.  There is no shortage of luxury cars on the spider web of jammed freeways.

Suzhou is the Garden City and the Venice of The East.  Our first stop is at the Suzhou Embroidery Research Institute.  We watch as a couple of master embroiderers work on pieces that will take a thousand hours to complete.  We’re asked not to take pictures and I comply.  Master works are on display.  The best ones are double sided with completely different pictures on the reverse, such as Lady Di with Prince Charles on the other side.  Of course, there was a shopping opportunity at the end of the demonstrations and displays.  The double sided pieces come in rosewood stands that swivel for viewing.  A substantial piece would run about $20,000.  When you consider the number of hours, I guess it’s probably a bargain, and considering that these women generally have to retire at 40 because they can’t see anymore.

Next, we head to the canals and board boats that hold about 25 each.  I think there are six buses from Viking here this day, so we monopolized all the boats.  Unlike Venice, these canals are strictly used by tourist boats.  No longer are the homes served by water taxis or private boats.  It’s very picturesque as we motor through the canal.  It seems like it must be laundry day and it also seems like all the men wear faded, stretched out, red underwear.

Next we’re taken to the Radisson Hotel where we have a very mediocre lunch, served family style on the typically Chinese round lazy Susan table.  

After lunch we go to The Classical Gardens of Suzhou, which are a UNESCO World Heritage site.  It’s crowded, so it’s hard to get a photo op without masses of people.  Will try to edit them out later.  It’s lovely, but we move slow and probably don’t see half of what there is to see. 

It’s time to get back in the buses and fight the rush hour traffic back to the ship.

That night the sky is clearer than the previous night.  I couldn’t stop taking pictures of the skyline.  In every direction are colorfully lit buildings.  One building is constantly changing its pattern.  Tourist boats on the river are lit and change colors every few minutes.  It’s quite a spectacle. 

I’m so impressed with Shanghai.  It’s clean and organized and prosperous.   

But, mostly it’s all about the LIGHTS.