Sunday the 17th we docked in Cienfuegos, Cuba.
Shortly after docking we headed out on a bus for the "Sojourn to Havana," an overnight away from the ship. Despite warnings that entry through Cuban immigration might be fraught with delays, real or manufactured to aggravate us Americans, we sailed through without incident. Quickly boarding the awaiting fleet of buses (manufactured in China, we later learned,) we were impressed by the efficiency of the Viking staff. Leaving Cienfuegos, passing crumbling architecture of which we would see much more, narrow streets, crowded doorways, skinny dogs and cats running free; city streets soon gave way to more rural scenes. The roads are often bumpy and narrow, probably unimproved since the 50's. We began to see sugar cane fields, grazing cows, horses, and goats. The earth is a red clay color but apparently more airy and fertile. Colorful American classic vehicles and utilitarian Russian made vehicles share the road with hitchhikers and horse and buggy.
On the 3+ hour trip to Havana Jose, our local guide, gave us a running commentary of which we were able to understand about half of what he said. Fortunately, he didn't shut up and kept repeating himself so we were able to absorb about 80%. At the end of the day and a half it became obvious that Jose was a young Fidelist, although he seemed hopeful about a future of improved US Cuba relations. At a rest stop halfway to Havana we could purchase Che Guevara flags and berets and Castro-style caps. Do you think the grandchildren will appreciate the Che T-shirts we bought them?
Arriving in Havana we did a driving tour and stopped briefly at the monument to Jose Marti, where the classic cars congregate for photo ops.
Then on to the Melia Habana hotel, a welcome drink and our room. At first glance the room seems large and luxurious, two full beds pushed together to make a super-king, huge marble tiled bathroom and balcony. After being there a while you begin to notice that things are dated and crumbling: veneer peeling off of furniture, grout discoloring, beds hard as rocks. It has a soviet-like ambiance. After settling in all the "sojourners" headed downstairs to be transported to dinner via a classic car taxi. What a feat for Viking to have organized this treat. About 150 of us piled into cars and paraded to the restaurant about 5 miles away. Most of the vehicles, although they look like American classics, have had their engines replaced with diesel engines of one kind or another. We were lucky to hop on a 1955 Buick Special convertible with its original engine. Dinner at the government-owned tourist trap was underwhelming. Following dinner we bused to the renowned Flamingo nightclub for a colorful show which included one bottle of rum and four cokes for every four people. No photos inside the club unless you pay $5.
The next day we headed to Old Havana for a walking tour. The primarily Spanish Baroque architecture is colorful and crumbling.
(Forgot to mention that there are guest lecturers on board ship and there's usually a few programs of local interest at every port. We learned about Cuban architecture from Doctor Lori Verderame. I guess she's a History Channel personality.) The street people are also colorful and crumbling. Many are hustling something, a paper cone containing nuts, an American newspaper, a song, a photo op. While I was waiting for Bob outside a cigar store I was approached by a snaggle-toothed fellow with a guitar. The leading question is "where are you from." After that, they've gotcha. Anyway, he and I had a political discussion with a👍for Obama and a 👎for Trump.
Our guide took us to an indoor "craft market" but I only lasted about five minutes before I couldn't tolerate the constant solicitations to buy and retreated back to the bus. The "sojourners" were broken down into smaller groups to dine at different "paladars" throughout Old Havana. A "paladar" is the increasingly popular privately owned restaurant, as opposed to the state owned and operated ones of the past.
Back on the bus for the 4 hour return trip to the ship, with a stop at the Bay of Pigs Museum. Nothing was in English and our guide's microphone wasn't working anymore so this was a pointless side trip. During the remainder of the bus ride we watched a video about the "Special Period" of Cuba's history. This was the time after the the 1989 breakup of the Soviet Union when Cuba experienced an economic crisis as a result of their close ties and dependence on their alliance with the Soviets. The film was a bit of propaganda in that it held Cuba up as an example of the success of the community based solutions that got the Cuban people through these difficult times. It warned that "Peak Oil" would result in other countries suffering the same consequences as Cuba. (I think the film was about 10 years old, back when we were still afraid of running out of fossil fuels.) I guess this was the mandatory educational portion of the trip.
A long day and a half. Happy to be back on board. I know we just got a small taste of Cuba. As Americans, we can't roam free. Maybe someday.
